These tests are carried out with the circuit isolated and proved dead. They check the wiring itself: that every conductor is connected, the insulation is sound and everything is wired the right way round.
1
Safe isolation and circuit isolation
Before we touch anything, we isolate the circuit, lock it off and prove it's dead with an approved voltage indicator, checking the indicator on a known live source before and after. To narrow down a fault, we then bring circuits and appliances back on one at a time, which quickly shows whether the problem is in the wiring or in something plugged into it.
What it finds: Which circuit or appliance is causing the problem, safely.
2
Earth continuity and bonding
We measure the resistance of each circuit's protective (earth) conductor, recorded as R1+R2, to prove there's a continuous earth path to every point. We also check the main bonding to incoming gas and water pipes, and supplementary bonding where it's needed, so metalwork can't become dangerously live during a fault.
What it finds: Missing or broken earths, loose earth connections and missing bonding.
3
Three-step ring continuity test
This test checks that a ring final circuit is complete. First we measure the line, neutral and earth conductors end to end. Then we cross-connect the ends and take a reading at every socket. On a healthy ring the readings are almost identical all the way round, so a higher reading at one socket points straight to the problem.
What it finds: Broken rings, loose terminals, interconnections and incorrectly wired spurs.
4
Insulation resistance test
Using an insulation resistance tester, we apply a DC test voltage, usually 500V on household circuits, between the live conductors and between the live conductors and earth. Healthy insulation gives a very high reading in megohms. A low reading means current is leaking through damaged insulation, moisture or a faulty accessory. Sensitive equipment is unplugged first so it isn't affected.
What it finds: Damaged or wet cables, faulty accessories, earth leakage and short circuits.
5
Polarity test
Polarity testing confirms that switches and protective devices are in the line conductor, not the neutral, and that sockets and lampholders are wired the right way round. With reversed polarity a light fitting can still be live when it's switched off, which is a real shock risk when you change a bulb.
What it finds: Reversed connections at sockets, switches and light fittings.